The Recovering Vagabond

Miami

2011-02-20T14:30:00.000-08:00

Mix a bit of old Florida in with the New World Symphony

When I tell people I grew up in Miami in the ‘80s, it frequently inspires visions of Crockett and Tubbs, but of course my actual childhood looked more like this. I haven’t lived there in well over a decade, so at this point I feel about as qualified to discuss its appeal to the independent traveler as I do that of Budapest. However, one childhood favorite that’s still worth a visit is Venetian Pool, whose free-form lagoon complete with coral rock caves and cascading waterfalls has been cooling off bathers since the 1920s. Seems to me a perfect prelude to a night at the symphony in Frank Gehry’s New World Center.

When I visit Miami these days (which isn’t often), I’m fortunate enough to be able to stay with family for free, so I don’t have any first-hand experience with lodging options, but that won’t stop me from suggesting a few alternatives to the $400 rooms ($500 for a view) at Soho Beach House that the New York Times recommends in “The 41 Places to Go in 2011”.

The Miami River Inn is a unique B&B near downtown that’s listed on the National Register of Historic Places; rooms start at $89. Closer to the beach, the Clay Hotel has an even more interesting history, having once played host to both Al Capone’s gambling ring and rumba performances by Desi Arnaz. Double rooms go for as little as $62 and dorm beds start at $21. South Beach Hostel (beds from $18) offers a more modern aesthetic and a lively late-night party atmosphere. Suggested topic of conversation wherever you stay: new mayoral candidate Luther Campbell.

This post is the last in a series responding to each destination in the New York Times article “The 41 Places to Go in 2011”. I’ll be taking a few days off while pondering which travel article to focus on next.

Budapest

2011-02-19T17:20:00.000-08:00

Sample the bohemian romkocsma scene, glamorous digs not required

I spent a few days in Budapest this past November and the chilly weather made my visit to the Szechenyi Baths that much more enjoyable. No info yet on the prices at the Buddha Bar Hotel recommended by the New York Times in "The 41 Places to Go in 2011", but the following options are guaranteed to cost a whole lot less.

I stayed at the centrally located Leo Panzio for $67 a night (doubles go for $104) but prices jump significantly when the weather warms. Across the Danube in Buda, the swanky Hotel Citadella is an appealing alternative located in a historic hilltop fortress with rooms starting at $55 and dorm beds for $14. Back in Pest, Home Made Hostel is another good budget option ($53 doubles, $15 beds) with quirky, gravity-defying décor. Wherever you stay, be sure to sample the city’s paprika chicken, one of the tastiest meals I had on that month-long trip.

Okinawa, Japan

2011-02-18T22:46:00.000-08:00

The American impact on this “Japanese Amazon”

In “The 41 Places to Go in 2011”, the New York Times says of Okinawa, “the cluster of coral-lined islands has long been a uniquely lovely place to experience wild Japan” and they specifically recommend heading to the northern coast of Okinawa Island for an “unspoiled, natural experience.” The natural beauty of the three archipelagos that make up this island chain is undoubtedly deserving of this praise, but the tossed off reference to the future of an American military base carefully elides the current threat to that wild, unspoiled beauty. Before going any further on that topic, I’ll just point out that you don’t need to pay the $280 a night and up that it costs to stay at their recommended resorts. You can find perfectly nice guesthouses for under $40 per person like Iriomote Monsoon in the Yaeyama Island Group and Guesthouse Nakayamagwa on the equally idyllic Zamami Island. Better yet, you can camp for under $8 a night and awake just steps from these crystalline turquoise waters.

So by all means go to Okinawa, I certainly hope to, but if you’re interested in knowing more about the American military’s impact on these beautiful wild places and their inhabitants, read on…

Because of the imposing presence of several U.S. military bases and the used-car dealerships, strip malls and fast-food outlets that come with that presence, Okinawa Island is also the place in Japan where mainland Japanese go to experience American culture (food for thought next time you're in Little Tokyo). Okinawans however, many of whom are descended from the Ryūkyū culture that pre-dates Japanese influence in the islands, overwhelmingly want these bases gone, as massive protests continue to demonstrate. Perhaps more surprisingly, beyond Okinawa over 80% of all Japanese advocate either complete or partial closure of American military bases throughout the country.

Swayed by popular pressure, Japan and the U.S. are currently negotiating the relocation of Futenma Air Base to a site further north along Henoko Bay, but while this relocation would move the base further from the island’s population center, it would simultaneously pose a greater threat to Okinawa’s critically endangered dugong population. In fact, a U.S. court ruled in 2008 that the Department of Defense was in violation of U.S. law in its disregard for the environmental impact of the base; and culturally revered endangered wildlife aside, the environmental dangers threaten the island’s human population as well. Toxic materials such as cadmium, mercury, PCBs, arsenic, and hexavalent chromium have been detected in soil and outflow areas that drain from bases; in one case the soil was found to contain lead levels 20 times higher than those deemed environmentally acceptable.

Unfortunately, the United States Department of Defense has a shameful history of poisoning the lands of poor Pacific Islanders and then abandoning them. Over a thousand Filipino civilians have died as a result of the pollution left behind by the now-defunct Clark Air Force Base, and thousands more suffer from leukemia, respiratory problems, skin diseases, or are born with developmental disorders. The U.S. government has never undertaken any pollution cleanup nor provided any medical care for the victims and the deeply corrupt Filipino government has largely left its neediest citizens to slowly grow ill and die.

So the citizens of Okinawa have good reason to be concerned about the environmental degradation of their own land (and by extension their bodies). Since its exit from the Philippines, the U.S. Department of Defense has written more stringent regulations governing their environmental impact overseas, but those regulations are self-enforced and broadly worded, leaving Japan with no recourse should military base land be left polluted. In fact, the wording of those regulations specifically precludes Japan conducting any walk-in investigations of base land. So a double-standard remains in effect in which base lands on American soil are regulated with a single standard for pollution removal, while no enforceable laws exist for regulating the removal of pollution overseas.

Why does all this dire information merit mention in a travel blog? Well, if you’re planning to head to Okinawa, especially if you’re a United States citizen, you should respect the fact that most residents of the islands have good reason to resent your country’s occupation and despoiling of their lands and waters. Perhaps you'll be interested to show your support by adding your name to this petition, in hopes that Okinawans and travelers alike might continue to enjoy the natural beauty of these islands.

Salonika, Greece

2011-02-17T14:56:00.000-08:00

As usual, bad economic times seem to foster good art

I spent ten days in Salonika this past December while attending the Thessaloniki International Film Festival. Unfortunately, going to 36 screenings over that span left very little time for exploring the city beyond its theaters. However, the many late night hours I spent typing up notes on the films I’d seen each day deepened my appreciation for the value of my conveniently located, comfortable, and affordable room at Aegeon Hotel. Double rooms start at $68 and singles $58, but by showing up without a reservation and asking what they could do for me, I managed to get mine for $47 including tax. The hotel has a strong wifi connection and serves a full breakfast each morning (although I still haven’t regained my taste for peaches & cream after ten consecutive days of the stuff).

You can find less expensive accommodation at Backpacker’s Refuge, which offers dorm beds for $20, but it’s a short bus ride or a long walk from the center of town. In addition to the art spaces and events suggested by the New York Times in “The 41 Places to Go in 2011”, make time to check out the Museum of Photography’s PhotoBiennale, loosely organized around the idea of “topos” (place). The show runs through March 2011 and the interactive component is especially worth exploring.

Pingyao, China

2011-02-16T00:58:00.000-08:00

Ming-era lodging for prices that feel nearly as antiquated

Guess what? You don’t have to pay over $160 a night to stay in a restored courtyard house built more than 200 years ago, as the New York Times suggests in “The 41 Places to Go in 2011”. In fact, if you choose instead to stay at Yamen Hostel, you’ll spend your nights in a building constructed over 400 years ago during the Ming Dynasty that once served as the governor’s residence. A private “Luxury Room” costs a mere $27 and comes complete with kang-style beds heated beneath by stove in winter. Simpler dorm beds start at under $5 and both come with full access to their beautifully restored courtyard and café.

For a step up in privacy and luxury, try Tianyuankui Guesthouse (over 200 years old itself) where double rooms start at $45.

Kosovo

2011-02-15T17:18:00.000-08:00

From the cosmopolitan capital to the Accursed Mountains

As the New York Times points out in “The 41 Places to Go in 2011”, Kosovo has declared its independence, although Serbia still refuses to recognize its sovereignty, which can make travel from Kosovo into Serbia a bit tricky. Nevertheless, those details can be worked out, and at present the political situation doesn’t present any problems for the informed traveler.

A great budget lodging option in Pristina is Velania Guesthouse, where a double room costs $27 in this large house owned and run by a former professor. There’s nothing quite so appealing in Peja, although the town does have a handful of decent hotels. To get a little further off-the-beaten-path, consider a side-trip to Drini Waterfall and Rugova Gorge for hiking, cycling, and a refreshing summertime swim.

Durham, N.C.

2011-02-14T22:42:00.000-08:00

This downtown turnaround benefits film fans and foodies alike

Perhaps the most surprising destination included in the New York Times in “The 41 Places to Go in 2011”, Durham has long been overshadowed by both the state capital of Raleigh and the hotbed of independent rock that was ‘90s Chapel Hill. As the Times indicates though, Durham is coming into its own of late as more than an area explored by only the more adventurous of Duke University students.

In addition to the inexpensive treats at Parker and Otis and the weekly farmers market and the more upscale dining at Revolution (their three-course tasting menu is $40), you may also want to check out the locally-sourced Carolina cuisine at Watts Grocery. Durham lacks a hostel or even a reasonably-priced B&B, but beyond the usual selection of cheap motels, you’ll find a handful of promising lodging listings under $50 on Airbnb. If you’re a cinephile, you may want to schedule your trip to coincide with April’s Full Frame Documentary Film Festival, which for over a decade has been providing the mid-Atlantic with its first look at eye-opening non-fiction works like Control Room and Trouble the Water. This year’s fest will feature a program curated by archivist Rick Prelinger around the idea of archival footage, a subject especially close to my own personal interests in (in)appropriation.

Iraqi Kurdistan

2011-02-13T17:06:00.000-08:00

Independent travel in Iraq’s oasis of tranquility

It's been a busy couple of days and these posts have fallen behind, so they'll be coming two-per-day 'til I'm back on track this Friday.

Among the boldest-looking choices made by the New York Times in “The 41 Places to Go in 2011”, Iraqi Kurdistan does in fact enjoy a level of safety and stability not found in the rest of Iraq. The region has its own prime minister and parliament, its own passport stamps, language, and military, and it also has soaring peaks, gushing waterfalls, green valleys, and in 8,000 year-old Erbil, one of the oldest continually inhabited cities on Earth.

Best of all, independent travelers can access Kurdistan’s natural wonders and cultural highlights without the expense of a costly package tour. Instead of paying over $6,000 for the two-week Changing Face of Iraqi Kurdistan tour with Distant Horizons, or $9,000 for the 21-day tour with Geographic Expeditions, adventurous individuals can explore the region for less than one-tenth that cost. You can fly into Erbil, but a much less expensive alternative is to cross by land from Silopi, Turkey to Zakho, Iraq. Ten-day tourist visas are issued upon arrival and 30-day extensions are available in Erbil. The safest mode of transport is taxi and in town most rides cost only a few dollars. Taxis from one city to the next may run to $50 or more, but shared rides can cut that cost dramatically. Good budget rooms can be found in most areas for $25 or less. So get out there and discover "the Grand Canyon of the Middle East" along Hamilton Road and follow it up with a rollercoater ride of a more modern variety at an Erbil amusement park. It’ll be a roadtrip unlike any you’ve taken before.

Hangzhou, China

2011-02-12T10:14:00.000-08:00

You don’t have to go five-star to visit this historic jewel

In “The 41 Places to Go in 2011”, the New York Times enthusiastically announces a new generation of luxury hotels that have sprouted up around this peaceful retreat. Starting prices for these recommended rooms range from $180 at the Shangri-La Hotel to $580 at Aman. If you believe that peace doesn’t come so cheap, you might rather spend your money at West Lake Youth Hostel, set in the leafy environs of Jingci Temple. Beds cost only $8, and bright double rooms complete with skylight go for $33. Either way, you’ll feel free to seek out enlightenment, or just a few good photos, at nearby West Lake, Lingyin Temple, and beyond.

Tozeur, Tunisia

2011-02-11T10:18:00.000-08:00

Even this Saharan oasis is not shielded from current crises

As the national news cycle slowly shifts its focus from the ongoing revolutionary events in Tunisia, it’s worth remembering that one of the primary factors driving the uprising that that led to the toppling of that country’s autocratic regime was a very real and widespread fear among its citizens that they might soon be going hungry. The global price of staple foods like rice and wheat has increased by 32% in the past six months, a trend attributed by most to the catastrophic weather phenomena that have recently wiped out crops from Russia to Argentina. This dramatic rise is far from aberrant but instead represents just the latest in an increasingly dire trend; even accounting for inflation, these basic foodstuffs cost the world’s poorest people twice what they did just seven years ago according to the Food and Agricultural Organization of the United Nations.

Meanwhile, nearly a month after ousting President Zine El Abidine Ben Ali, protests continue in Tunisia with occasionally violent results as its citizens demand that all traces of Ben Ali’s Democratic Constitutional Rally party be swept from political office, and Tozeur is not immune. Mindful of this continuing unrest, the U.S. Department of State advises against travel to anywhere other than Tunisia’s coastal tourist areas in its most recent Travel Alert, issued just two days ago (of course, they also currently have a Travel Alert in effect for the U.K.) So the point here is obviously that it may be too soon to resume planning that trip to Tunisia, but also that beyond personal safety, there are ethical considerations to weigh when deciding how to travel in a nation populated by so many millions worried about how they’ll feed their families next month.

I’ve railed against the callous indifference displayed by the New York Times when encouraging oblivious luxury travel in the region in another post in this series, so I won’t repeat that critique here, in part because it’s at least a bit less applicable. The Dar HI Hotel in Nefta doesn’t appear to deserve the same criticism thanks to responsible initiatives including a sustainable water use plan and community outreach through their Palm research lab. The rooms at Dar HI do start at well over $300 a night, so it’s typically out-of-reach for most Times readers, not to mention nearly all of the citizens of its host country, but surprisingly, the Times does also deserve credit for encouraging genuine engagement with Tunisian culture in this particular piece from "The 41 Places to Go in 2011".

When the time is right, you’ll find an even more sustainable place to lay your head at Camping les Beaux Reves in Tozeur, where tent sites cost $6, and you can also rent a Bedouin tent, a bungalow or simply sling up a hammock between two trees in their shady palm grove. Accommodations with more modern conveniences are easy to find for under $30. Tozeur is also a better town in which to base yourself than small, dusty Nefta which lies 15 miles to the southwest. Of course, choosing to live simply on your travels won’t have any measurable effect on the ability of a local family to purchase enough bread, but using less resources does leave more for the rest of us to share.

Colonia del Sacramento, Uruguay

2011-02-10T10:48:00.000-08:00

Stroll the cobblestone calles of the Barrio Histórico

To be clear, the two ranches the New York Times recommends in “The 41 Places to Go in 2011” are just about as far from Colonia as is Buenos Aires, and “nearby” Puerto Camacho is even further. Nothing wrong with that, but be aware that visiting any of these destinations from the recommended lodgings will involve a significant day-trip. If you do decide to go for that “rural chic” getaway, La Vigna is by far the better deal, in fact it’s one of the most affordable lodgings the Times has recommended in this list. Double rooms with private bath start at $100 a night and the bucolic surroundings make it seem like money well-spent. On the other hand, Estancia Tierra Santa will set you back at least $385.

If both of those places are out of your league, or if you’d just prefer to stay near the heart of the UNESCO World Heritage listed village, you’ll find an inexpensive and convenient base at El Viajero Colonia Hostel. Beds start at $15 and a private ensuite room is available for $30 per person. You’ll be just a few blocks from the center of the barrio historico and the hostel will gladly organize bike or horseback rides and farm or winery trips if you get an urge to experience some of that countryside life.

Zanzibar

2011-02-09T17:49:00.000-08:00

This African isle is not just for the après safari set

Far too many hours spent browsing photos of Zanzibar have propelled this gorgeous Tanzanian island to the top spot on my personal list of go-to destinations from “The 41 Places to Go in 2011”. I think the photos sell this place on their own, so I’m not going to say much other than offering up some alternative lodging suggestions. Were you to follow the advice of the New York Times, you’d very likely get discouraged into thinking such a far-off locale was off-limits to anyone who has to think twice about whether “going on safari” is affordable; both Baraza and Kilindi cost over $1000 a night for two people. Confusingly, their suggestion for “travelers with deep pockets” starts at a relatively reasonable $180 while their “cheaper option”, Dongwe Ocean View, is not much less at $150 during the low season.

As usual, you’ll find there are actually excellent lodging options that cost less than half of their least expensive suggestion. Zanzibar has roughly 500 miles of coastline, so the first step is deciding where on the island to base yourself. One excellent option is laid-back Kendwa, which sits near the northern tip of the island and has some of its most beautiful, swimmable beaches. At Sunset Bungalows, a cliffside bungalow double runs $45 in the low season and beach banda doubles start at $60. Meals are served at their beachside bar/restaurant and beach bonfires are built in the evenings. At nearby Kendwa Rocks, you’ll find more of a party atmosphere, with volleyball, pool tables, a bar, and monthly full moon beach parties. Their palmwood beach banda doubles (with fan and shared bath) start at $35 and their coconut wood beach bungalows (complete with verandahs, hammocks, air-con, and bath) start at $60.

Roughly 10 miles down the island’s east coast you’ll find a sleepier beach village in Matemwe, where you’re more likely to see local women drying seaweed in the sand than fire-twirling backpackers. The palm-fringed white sand beach here is also the best spot on the island from which to head out diving. At Nyota Beach Bungalows, $75 gets you a double bungalow with private bath and verandah set in a garden full of flowers, papaya, and palms just steps from the beach. There’s an on-site restaurant, and a good chance that the fish you’ll dine on will be the very ones you saw getting hauled out of the boats earlier that day.

Oualidia, Morocco

2011-02-08T18:15:00.000-08:00

On the limits of separating yourself from the crowds

The promise of “no crowds” made by the New York Times in their real-estate-pitch-styled coverage of Oualidia in “The 41 Places to Go in 2011” raises a paradox central to much travel writing. Defining a place’s appeal based on its lack of tourists encourages an influx of the very people who everyone is traveling there to avoid. While I’ve certainly been guilty of talking up the solitude found on an unspoiled island, it’s worth considering what responsibility the travel writer bears in protecting a location’s fragile beauty. I think a good starting point is too acknowledge the limits of that supposed unspoiled condition and to encourage travel that minimizes impact. The wilderness backpacking community has such an ethos in the Leave No Trace movement. Perhaps it’s time for international travelers to start discussing the feasibility of an analogous set of low-impact standards.

In the case of Oualidia, you’ll find that crowds are indeed still minimal as long as you avoid visiting in summer, but development around the lagoon is more advanced than the talk of “communing with nature” may suggest. As far as lodging options are concerned, La Diouana is indeed a beautiful spot, perched on a cliff above the lagoon. Prices start at nearly $2000 a week for a group of up to six, and double in the summer, so if you and five friends wanted to split the cost and go during November (low season), when the birding is good but the rain is frequent, you'd each pay a bit over $50 a night. Not a bad deal actually, but for the typical independent traveler, not a very likely scenario either.

La Sultana looks stunning, although the pretty lagoon it overlooks is too shallow and marshy for swimming, and more than a few guests have complained of its odor. More off-putting to me is an apparent insistence on soundtracking your stay with music from films like Titanic and Ghost, noise pollution at its worst in my book. La Sultana also has one of those websites that suggests if you have to ask how much it costs to stay there, you probably can't afford it, but if you’re still interested rooms start around $360. You’ll pay one-tenth that price at L'Hippocampe (credit to the Times for offering a budget option here for a change) and overlook the very same lagoon. Of course, staying there doesn’t reduce your impact either, unless fewer tourism dollars spent translates into less encouragement for further development, so the questions remain. To what extent does traveling necessitate spoiling? Is a traveler’s desire to keep a place “unspoiled” necessarily at odds with a local’s desire to grow the economy? No easy answers, but food for thought…

Dresden, Germany

2011-02-07T08:32:00.000-08:00

Visit Saxony for a taste of old...Mexico?

Travelers inspired to pay a visit to Dresden's new Armeemuseum, whether due to a special interest in Germany's military history or just a desire to explore Daniel Libeskind's striking architectural feat, may be frustrated by the absence of lodging suggestions in the New York Times coverage in "The 41 Places to Go in 2011". If so, you'll find a few appealing, yet affordable options below.

Strangely, the city's lively Neustadt neighborhood includes several theme hostels. Mezcalero (beds from $23, singles $41, doubles $65) immerses its guests in Aztec/Mexican decor, complete with its own tequila bar. Meanwhile, over at Hostel Mondpalast (beds $17, singles $39, doubles $48), each room is done up in a different zodiac theme, begging the question, will they redecorate to accommodate Ophiuchus? For a less kitchy experience, Hotel Privat has $100 doubles with a touch of Saxon charm. You'll probably appreciate whichever form of escapism you choose here after that sobering tour through recent German history.

Olympic National Park, Washington

2011-02-06T19:03:00.000-08:00

Find even better views of winter storms from your campsite

I first visited Olympic National Park on a solo backpacking trip in the summer of 2004. I started my hike on a foggy morning near Hurricane Ridge and over the course of the next few days, made my way down to the rainforest. My trek was cut short by a knee injury, but I managed to hitch a ride with a friendly retired couple down to the rugged coast, completing my sampler of the park's unique trio of ecosystems. I briefly returned with my girlfriend five years later on a roadtrip around the western US, this time making the requisite stop to search for sparkling vampires in the land of Twilight, but Rialto Beach and the Hoh Rainforest still outshone the glittery bloodsuckers.

We ended our visit with dinner at Lake Quinault Lodge, and had it not been beyond our budget, we'd have loved to stay the night in that rustic lakeside retreat highlighted by the New York Times in "The 41 Places to Go in 2011". Turns out in the off-season, rates are much more affordable with rooms starting at $90 a night. At Kalaloch Lodge, which sits on a bluff overlooking the dramatic coastline, rooms currently go for as little as $100. If those prices seem a bit steep, don't be deterred from a winter visit. Many of the park's low-elevation campgrounds are open year-round, with drive-up tent sites going for between $12 and $18 a night.

You can find an even better view of the Olympic coast than the one at the lodge from some of the sites at Kalaloch campground, where your outdoor "fireplace" can serve as kitchen and heater in addition to creating ambiance. Other great winter/spring campground options include Hoh, with its resident herd of Roosevelt elk and Sol Duc, where you can warm up in the nearby hot springs after March 24. Wherever you choose, your storm watching will be enhanced by the peace and quiet that is the off-season park visitor's reward.

Guimarães, Portugal

2011-02-05T13:34:00.000-08:00

Sometimes the extra expense is worth it

OK, here’s the deal. If the New York Times's "41 Places to Go in 2011" has you interested in visiting Guimarães, whether for contemporary art or medieval ruins, you can swing it for a mere $17 if you’re willing to bunk in a dorm room at HI Guimarães. It’s centrally located and also offers private doubles for $44, but if you can afford the extra dough, it might be worthwhile to upgrade your lodging here. At Pousada de Guimarães – Nossa Senhora da Oliveira (yes, that’s all part of the name) $100 gets you a room in this warm, intimate 16th century inn on what Frommers says is “one of Portugal’s most beautiful medieval squares.” If the price tag is too much, you can explore the city just as easily from the HI or maybe the clean, if unremarkable Hotel Ibis ($50), but with all the youth on display in this town, the charms of the old Pousada will stand out in even greater relief.

Whistler, British Columbia

2011-02-04T15:23:00.000-08:00

Close quarters and public transit for visitors on a budget

As I’ve discussed previously, skiing is one of the least-accessible of outdoor activities thanks to a host of hefty associated costs, and Whistler certainly doesn’t offer much in the way of budget alternatives. A stay at the backcountry Callaghan Lodge, recommended by the New York Times in “The 41 Places to Go in 2011”, costs a minimum of $169 per person per night, although it does come with food and trail tickets. If you’re traveling with a partner, your money will go nearly twice as far with a room at The Inn at Whistler Village ($169 for two), from which you’ll be able to access the trails around Callaghan Lodge.

Unfortunately, unless you’re willing to bunk with strangers you can’t do much better than that in Whistler, where even the private hostel rooms run to well over a hundred a night. If you are open to dorm beds, UBC Whistler Lodge and HI-Whistler, both a short bus ride from Whistler Village, charge $40. At UBC you can warm up in their sauna and jacuzzi, while the brand new HI offers its own café. For more privacy and convenience at a slightly lower rate than the village resorts, try Chalet Luise, where $125 ensuite doubles come with homemade a breakfast and use of the gazebo hot tub. Alternatively, wait until summer when camping in the nearby Garibaldi Range or around Callaghan Lake reveals a side of the region’s beauty usually hidden beneath the snow.

Port Ghalib, Egypt

2011-02-03T16:34:00.000-08:00

Bad timing, but don’t give up on that trip to the Red Sea

This is obviously not a good time to visit Egypt, and there’s no need to go into the reasons why here. I’ve already expressed much of what I feel the need to say regarding the ethical perils involved in certain types of escapist travel to this region at the moment. Despite coming before the current Egyptian unrest erupted, any perceived prescience in those earlier remarks is simply the result of reading about developments that have been well-documented in the news media.

The New York Times is certainly not to be faulted for suggesting travel to Egypt a month ago, although again I take issue with their willful turn-of-the-blind-eye approach to political realities, exclusion of locally-based companies, and tendency to cater to only the wealthiest ten percent of their readers. In case you’re holding out hope of taking that diving expedition to Elphinstone Reef recommended in “The 41 Places to Go in 2011” once Egypt settles down again, you should know that it’ll cost you a few thousand extra on top of the $6,500 you’ll pay for a nine-day tour with Admiral Travel. I can’t help but wonder if the private cocktail reception with the wife of former President Anwar Sadat will be rendered politically unwise by current events.

Elphinstone Reef is indeed a beautiful underwater sight, and once the political situation has stabilized you can arrange an affordable snorkeling or diving day-trip with a number of local companies. The Egypt-based Red Sea Diving Safari offers dives to Elphinstone starting at just $60 and snorkeling will run you a mere $14. And instead of basing yourself at a pricey resort in Port Ghalib, you can rent a posh tent on the beach near Marsa Alam for just $40 a night. You’ll swim in the same clear waters past the very same reef sharks, and you’ll be supporting the local economy in the process. Hopefully you'll be able to do this in a free democratic Egypt before long.

Singapore

2011-02-02T18:41:00.000-08:00

Save up for that Pop-Art room by dining hawker style

OK, I have to admit, if you’re looking to splurge, the Pantone rooms (starting at $150) at Wanderlust seem like a worthy place for it, although the Space room is the one I really want. Either way, a more unique experience than the Hard Rock at $210 and more within reach than the $600 and up you’ll pay at the iconic Raffles Hotel. I must say, I’m surprised to see a Chippendales show in Singapore; perhaps the whole city is turning into an “adult playground”.

If you’re more interested in exploring Singapore’s abundant culinary delights than the over-the-top resorts highlighted by the New York Times in "The 41 Places to Go in 2011" though, there are plenty of budget accommodations clustered in Little India. Both Footprints Hostel and Tresor Tavern have dorm beds for $16 a night in a great location from which to sample the Chinese, Malaysian, and of course Indian specialties that makes the city a food-lover’s paradise. Check out what the hawkers have for sale at Tekka Market in Little India, Smith Street in Chinatown, and Boat Quay after the sun goes down riverside, all places where a great meal can be had for less than $5.

Fogo Island, Newfoundland

2011-02-01T17:28:00.000-08:00

Still under construction, but don’t let that stop you

This place is so remote that the folks at the Flat Earth Society have dubbed it one of the five “corners of the Earth”. That dubious assertion aside though, the island's extreme North Atlantic location does make for some spectacular landscapes. As the New York Times says in “The 41 Places to Go in 2011”, the artists’ colony growing here is still far from complete, as is the tourism infrastructure. The ensuite doubles at both Foley’s B&B and Peg’s B&B, go for $85 a night in very modest structures, and there aren’t many other options yet other than camping. What the island does have now though, is miles of hiking trails, historic fishing villages, and small herds of wild ponies and caribou. So get going now unless you’re waiting for posher lodging options or one of those soon-to-be-coveted artist residencies.

Tallinn, Estonia

2011-01-31T16:30:00.000-08:00

When the nights grow long, the city’s screens light up

In addition to the arts venues and events mentioned by the New York Times in “The 41 Places to Go in 2011”, Tallinn also hosts one of Europe’s most interesting regional film festivals. Showcasing some of the best new Scandinavian, Baltic, and Eastern European cinema, the Black Nights Film Festival was drawing artistic-types to town long before the KultuuriKatel was conceived. Estonia itself has been the source of some interesting films of late and the International Federation of Film Critics awarded the Estonian film The Temptation of St Tony its top prize at this past year’s festival. As the name indicates, the nights are long in Tallinn by the time the festival rolls around each November, but with less than seven hours of daylight, you won’t feel so guilty about spending all that time in movie theaters.

You’ll want somewhere warm and cozy to return each night to escape the chill in the air, and sociable travelers will find just that at Tallinn Backpackers, where beds start at $14. Boasting a convenient old town location, the hostel also offers a free jacuzzi tub and sauna, which are not only a great place to warm up, but also guaranteed to be a quick way to get to know your bunkmates! For a bit more privacy, try OldHouse Hostel, where the $36 double rooms come with a hearty breakfast. They also rent private apartments in a nearby building starting at a mere $56. With only seven degrees of latitude separating you from the Arctic Circle, you’ll appreciate having your own fireplace all the more.

Manchester, England

2011-01-30T10:45:00.000-08:00

Discover the soon-to-be famed musical present

Manchester’s music venues are doing more than cashing in on nostalgia for the days of Factory Records or The Hacienda as the New York Times suggests in “The 41 Places to Go in 2011”. They’re also supporting a reinvigorated local music scene that includes up-and-comers Delphic, Egyptian Hip Hop, Dutch Uncles, Airship, and Everything Everything. At the same time, these venues, which include the Deaf Institute, the Ruby Lounge, Night and Day Café, and Academy are drawing hot new bands from around the world like TV on the Radio and Sleigh Bells. Better yet, the scene extends far beyond these darlings of the music press to a host of accomplished underground acts playing in alternative spaces.

At Islington Mill Studios, a former cotton spinning mill has been revamped to house over 50 artists studios, two galleries, a recording studio and a performance space. In just a few years, the venue has drawn acts as diverse and accomplished as Ariel Pink, No Age, Sun O))), Ex-Models, Lighting Bolt, Mount Kimbie, Majik Markers, Oneida, Ghost, and local favs the Ting Tings. Meanwhile, over at Band on the Wall, where live music performances date back at least to the 1930s, a non-profit music education center is now thriving. In the same space that once hosted early punk shows by the Buzzcocks and the Fall, community members can now catch a performance by Bjork or take a class in folk fiddling.

When you’re ready to give your ears a rest, you’ll find the affordable lodging options a lot more appealing than those to the south in London. Backpackers will feel at home at Hatters, which has two Manchester locations, the original (yet another converted factory space) consisting primarily of dorm beds that start at $23. The second location offers private ensuite rooms (doubles from $87) and both boast a great location in the heart of the Northern Quarter. For a more serene locale still within easy reach of the city’s center, try The Oxnoble where stylish ensuite doubles start at only $63. Rest up, you’re going to need your energy to keep up with this city.

Hyderabad, India

2011-01-29T18:48:00.000-08:00

The flip side of this booming city’s “dynastic grandeur”

In their entry on Hyderabad in “The 41 Places to Go in 2011”, the New York Times talks up the city’s history of “bling” and its new wave of outsourcing-fueled wealth. This sprawling IT hub is indeed experiencing an economic boom; India currently has the world’s 7th fastest growing economy and “Cyberabad” is among the urban areas where that growth is most feverish. What the Times conveniently overlooks when talking up the glamor of its latest five-star hotels though is the inequity in the distribution of all this wealth. While the Nizam family builds the latest monument to their post-dynastic opulence, more than a third of Hyderabad’s population resides in “slums, squatters and other poor settlements” and that poverty is growing according to a recent report from the city’s own development agency. Meanwhile, rooms at the Nizams' Taj Falaknuma Palace start at $440 a night, almost exactly equivalent to their nation’s annual per-capita income!

The World Bank reports that income inequality has actually been worsening throughout India for the past four decades and the widening gulf is visibly evident in Hyderabad. However, before you go looking down on India for perpetuating an inhumane caste system, consider that economic inequality is nearly twice as severe in the United States, where the top ten percent earn roughly 16 times as much as the bottom ten according to the United Nations Development Program (something to think about the next time you hear someone bemoan America's slide into "socialism"). So the point here is obviously not that you should skip that journey to India, but that perhaps you should question the motivations behind a publication suggesting a trip to this particular Indian city. While Hyderabad does indeed have a rich Islamic cultural heritage, complete with Persian architecture and distinctive Biryani dishes, there are dozens of other destinations in India that might be more appealing to a traveler whose interests extend beyond luxury accommodations.

Economic disparity aside, travelers should be aware that Hyderabad’s citizens have also had to cope with several recent terrorist bombings centered around the tourism heart of the old city. If your interest hasn’t yet been dampened though, you’ll find plenty of worthwhile experiences to sate your hunger for adventure here from browsing the stalls at the Laad Bazaar to exploring the tombs of the Qutb Shahi kings. Hyderabad doesn't have any especially appealing budget lodgings, but you'll find reasonably priced double rooms at the stylish Himayathnagar branch of the Taj Mahal Hotel chain ($26) and the kitchy, sunny Hotel Jaya International ($16). If you’d like to do something constructive to help the city’s less fortunate, you might consider volunteering through COVA, which matches volunteers with hundreds of NGOs, such as the Economic Empowerment Program for Women, throughout the state of Andhra Pradesh. You’ll get a truer sense of life in Hyderabad and make that life just a bit better for some of those left behind by that booming economy.

Erzurum, Turkey

2011-01-28T12:06:00.000-08:00

Skiing in Anatolia, it’s not just for university Olympians anymore

If you think Turkey sounds like an unlikely place for a ski resort, you’re right, or at least, it’s unlikely to conform to your expectations of what a ski resort looks like. Not a tree in sight on those slopes, which may make the place look a little less conventionally scenic, but at least it reduces your chances of ending up in the hospital after sliding off course. Erzurum does have some fantastic Seljuk architecture which, in addition to all that snow, more than justifies the trip.

As suggested by the New York Times in "The 41 Places to Go in 2011", for those insistent on staying on the mountain in Palandoken a room at the Marriott’s Renaissance Polat is really your best option, although at $190 a night the price is painfully steep. On the other hand, the trip from central Erzurum only takes ten minutes by public transport, and you’ll be more conveniently located to explore the city’s architecture and cuisine. Honestly, the budget lodging options in Erzurum seem to run the gamut from drab to dismal, but perhaps the best of the bunch is Otel Polat, where $38 gets you a double room in a clean, if not exactly attractive concrete structure in the city center. All the more reason to get out of the room and onto the chairlift for another run down those smooth Anatolian slopes.

Sopot and Gdansk, Poland

2011-01-27T14:16:00.000-08:00

Poland’s Baltic coast: the soft furry underbelly of Pomerania

As someone who has an unusual amount of affection for a certain small, puffy dog, I was hoping that a visit to Pomerania might go a little something like this. Unfortunately, if you’re heading to Sopot as recommended by the New York Times in “The 41 Places to Go in 2011”, it seems you won’t find packs of the friendly little furballs scampering underfoot. What you will find packs of, assuming you go in the summer, is people, lots of them, crowding this Baltic Sea beach town. Should you decide to stay at the Sofitel Grand, you’ll be spending at least $170 a night. However, you could choose a double room at Idyll at Sopot, a cute, color-coded oceanfront guesthouse in central Sopot for just over $50 a night. You won’t be hobnobbing with Vladimir Putin, but then, does that actually sound like fun anyway?

If Baltic beach parties aren’t really your thing, you can explore the narrow side streets of historic Gdansk from your room at Old Town Hostel. A private double runs $53 and beds only $14, so no need to drop $150 at the Hilton. As the name implies, you’ll be a short walk from the sights of old town and get a big hot breakfast to boot. Assuming you’re not planning to hit the symphony or the opera, you might consider renting a cabin in the seaside town of Stogi (3 miles from central Gdansk). You can do just that at Camping Gdansk for only $46 and you and up to four of your friends will be just a few hundred yards from the beach, yet far from the thump of the Sopot clubs. Or, if you're feeling lucky, pitch a tent for under $10 and leave it unzipped just a bit in hopes of a visit from those elusive wild pomeranians.